Pura Luhur Mekori and the Battle of the Two Dragons

Naga, or dragon, is a renowned mythical creature and found in lore across the world. It also plays a significant role in many of Bali’s renowned myths and legends—one of which is Naga Besuki in the legends of Pura Besakih. However, there is one temple in Belimbing Village that has its history intertwined with not one, but two dragons.

Pura Luhur Mekori is a temple situated on the western slopes of Mount Batukaru, right by the roadside of Jalan Raya Pupuan. The Balinese who travel along the road often stop at the temple to pray on the outside pelinggih, seeking the protection and blessings of the deities believed to reside there for a safe journey.

Its name, ‘Mekori’, is a combination of ‘Kori’ (gateway) and the prefix ‘Me’, symbolising an enclosed temple gate. From the outside, the temple appears to have a gateway, flanked by two large bunut trees. However, according to local beliefs, the name originally came from ‘Mas Kori’, as those with supernatural abilities claimed that the temple’s gateway was made of gold.

When you enter the temple grounds, expect a 300-metre path through the forest to reach the recently rebuilt jeroan or the inside temple. A fairly active tribe of monkeys roams the grounds, and while they may appear friendly, they can be mischievous at times, so it’s best to keep your distance.

Pura Luhur Mekori is closely linked to the legend of the conflict between Naga Gombang and Naga Rarik. Naga Rarik was once a little boy who transformed into a dragon because of the sin of his mother. Throughout his journey, he was always accompanied by his devoted younger sister, Ayu Mas Sari. After defeating Naga Gombang, Naga Rarik and his sister attained enlightenment, or moksha, at a place called Puser Jagat, which is believed to be the centre of the universe and happens to be the location where Pura Luhur Mekori now stands.

It is believed that at the site where Naga Rarik and Ayu Mas Sari attained moksha, a soka tree with orange flowers grew, now known as Soka Bang. To this day, the tree is highly revered by devotees of Pura Luhur Mekori and is located in the temple’s utama mandala area. Its flowers are still used in traditional ceremonies as symbols of sacrifice, devotion, and spiritual pursuit.